Fifth, Sixth, and Seventh Days in Israel
Thursday, September 10th, 2009Monday was a departure from the Dead Sea and ascent to Jerusalem. We started at Masada, the isolated Dead Sea mountain where Herod had built a fortified palace for himself, but which ended up being a refuge for about a thousand zealots and survivors from the “Great Rebellion” of the Jews against Rome in 66 AD, which resulted in the complete destruction of Jerusalem in 70 AD. They lived at Masada for three years until the Romans finally came for them, seiged them, and built a ramp to take the city. The rest is too much to tell here, but makes clear what is meant by the Masada mentality, a both scary and encouraging descriptor of the Israelis’ level of commitment to their nation. From Masada we visited En-Geddi (the oasis where David cut off Saul’s skirt) and Qumran (where the Dead Sea scrolls were found) on the way to Jerusalem. Best moment: seeing the caves where David hid with his “mighty men” while being pursued by Saul. Worst moment (and maybe best): contemplating Masada.
Tuesday started early with a jostling visit to the Temple Mount and ended with the Holocaust Museum. We entered Old Jerusalem through the Dung Gate, entered the Temple Mount, took in the mosques and comparative options for the intended location of the Holy Place of the Jewish Temple, and finally visited the western wall, or Wailing Wall. It is the remaining visible retaining wall from Herod’s Temple Mount. Much more of that retaining wall is now accessible underground. In the afternoon we went to Yad Vashem (The Holocaust Museum). Best moment: seeing the very stones on which New Testament characters were standing when the biblical narrative’s events took place. Worst moment: knowing that the psychological distress I suffer everytime I am again confronted with the truth of the Holocaust is not suffering at all.
We spent Wednesday getting a perspective of the greater Jerusalem area. We started by taking in a 1:50 scale model of Herod’s Jerusalem just before Titus’ destruction of it in 70 A.D. We also saw the Aleppo Codex there as well as various Qumran artefacts. From there we looked at Jerusalem from several prominent overlooks, stood where the shepherds were when angels announced the birth of Jesus to them, then traveled to the Valley of Elah. Best moment: either standing where David killed Goliath or where the shepherds received the announcement. Worst moment: seeing the sharp division between the Jewish and Arab sectors of Jerusalem and knowing how far this city is from the meaning of its name (“the city of peace”).
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